“Don’t cry for me A Coruna” refers to us finally leaving after 5 weeks, having enjoyed very much the hospitality found there. Before we sail on, I will fill you in on our time there.
Mercedes Villar Lopez, our graphic designer lives here and looked after us when we first arrived. She introduced us to the best places to eat real Spanish food and we admired the impressive architecture of the old town centre.
San Andres de Teixido
Mercedes drove us up to San Andreas de Teixido, so we wouldn’t have to come back in another life as an insect or reptile! The scenery was such a contrast to the city of A Coruna. It’s a curious tradition that mixes Christianity and paganism in Teixido. St Andrew ( San Andres) was thought to be stranded on this cove after his boat capsized. In Texeido pagan customs were practiced in pre-Roman times long before Christianity.
There are vendors who sell candles and wax figurines for you to sacrifice in the Church of San Andres. These figurines depict the part of the body that needs healing. They are placed in the church where a priest offers them up at a later time. There is a stream that passes under the church and down the hill. Here you need to wash what body part needs healing. Much to our relief, we are assured that we will not return as a reptile or insect after we die.
Sally visits us
Sally, our friend and dog sitter from Spring Hill in Victoria, was in Portugal. She traveled up to visit us and were thrilled to see her. We took her to eat in the restaurant, Momos, that Mercedes had recommended. If you know Sally, then you’d not be surprised to hear, coming back from dinner, two hounds found her to pat in the dark. The next day a little terrier outside a bar, followed us in after a few encouraging pats from Sally.
At the end of her brief stay, she decided to cook us a meal on the boat as a thank you. Sally & I headed off to Gaddis St Agustin, a very handy little supermarket that sells alcohol, fresh veggies, meats, seafood, and many processed items. Later we discover they deliver groceries free right to your moored boat. This day, Sally kept on buying lots of things, so we were quite loaded up. We spied a little cafe across from the supermarket and agreed we needed a rest, before catching a taxi back to the marina.
I don’t know how it happened, but when I stepped away briefly to chase up another errand, I came back to Sally chatting away to the owner, with two G & T’s on the table.
Drinks always come with something to nibble.
A feature of Spanish norms includes a sweet with a coffee, while a tapas or snack, such as chips or bread smothered in something is always served with alcohol. This cafe/bar served an interesting mix of Corn “nuts” with peanuts and soy bites. And a separate dish of sour lollies. We were there long enough, that this place became our local after grocery shopping. Good on you Sally for helping us find this place.
The Cafe to make sure you visit, if you get to A Coruna
Maco is the most friendly owner of St Agustin Cafe and Bar, and she makes a mean gin and tonic!! ( Pouring the gin from the bottle into a glass at the table, at times at least double the standard measures). Having stumbled on this place with Sally, Jill and I made it our regular. Her gin was better than her coffee. She made an artful performance of ensuring the tonic didn’t over fizz and took great delight in adding extra gin if you weren’t looking. She pointedly alerted Jill to look away when she poured the shot below.
We duck up to Santiago de Compostella
How could we be so close to (one of the) Camino trail routes and not visit Santiago de Compostela? We got up early and caught the train. Unfortunately, there were too many shops selling souvenir trinkets to tourists. We didnt need a trinket. Even accessing the main part of the Cathedral was not free. We satisfied ourselves by admiring the amazing architecture, the expansive square in front of the Cathedral and finally tried a Spanish Paella for lunch before we returned to A Coruna.
The other Helia 44 evos come and go, we are still there
Nearing the end of the month, our “Multihull Solutions Class of 2019” started leaving La Rochelle to finally arrive in A Coruna. It was so lovely to catch up with Roman and Allison on Odyssea X; Debbie, Paul, and Amelie on Wild Odyssey; then a little later, Desi and Peter on Solis. Everyone was so inspiring, that we were encouraged to look at how we could leave sooner than later, once all our outstanding tasks were completed.
The video content
At long last, we sail onward down the Atlantic coast. We introduce Gosia Grayzna, our assistant crew. This video explores Shelley devising our transit route to our destination in the Camarinas Ria. We debate the veracity of the claim that St James arrived in a stone boat from Bethlehem at Muxia, located in the south of the same Ria.
(Shelley Beer for 5 May – 10 June 2019)